Caresheet
With proper care, Crested Geckos can live over 20 years! Some animals from the Crested Gecko group found in New Caledonia in the 90's are still alive and breeding today. The care sheet below will give you an overview of the care requirements of Crested Geckos
Temperature
Crested geckos are one of very few reptile species that thrive in virtually the same temperature range that humans also find comfortable. Crested geckos are best maintained at room temperature. Temperatures between 72-80F are preferred, although they can withstand night time temperature drops into the 50's. Once the temperatures go above these levels crested geckos will start to lose their appetite, become stressed and their overall health will decline. Even brief exposure to temperatures above 85-90F can be lethal for crested geckos.
Humidity
Humidity isn't a huge issue with crested geckos, but a lack of humidity and/or hydration can cause shedding difficulty. We generally like to keep the humidity around or slightly above 50%. This is very easy to maintain in most homes by a quick misting or two every day. We use a fogging machine once a day. Low humidity will usually result in a gecko not being able to stick to smooth surfaces.
Hydration
In addition to keeping the cage at the right humidity levels, it is also important to offer a shallow dish of drinking water as well. This is another was to keep the gecko hydrated. The water in the bowl should be changed out at least twice a week to keep it fresh. Check the levels daily to make sure there is water available.
The first sign of minor dehydration is wrinkled skin. In severe cases, the head and eyes will start to sink in and the geckos themselves will have trouble moving. If your gecko becomes dehydrated, just fix the issue - mist the cage, provide a more accessible water bowl, etc.
Caging & Accessories
Crested geckos can be maintained successfully in just about any type of caging setup. All cages require a few basic things-
1.Crested geckos are arboreal, so we generally like something with ample height for climbing, but not too tall. I use an 18x18x24 Exo Terra tank for adults. Large Sterilite containers, like ones found at Wal-Mart and other stores, can easily be adapted to house cresteds.
2. A hiding place on the cage floor for when they're at rest. They don't want a large area, instead they want a short, tight hiding spot that they can wedge themselves into. This is basically so that anything large enough to be a potential predator simply won't fit inside. That's one way of staying safe while you sleep! It also helps promote healthy sleeping habits by allowing them to get out of the light when they are tired.
3. Lots of climbing structures. We like to use artificial foliage to better mimic the branches they rest on in their natural habitat. The leaves collect a lot of water droplets when we mist, and this helps provide additional drinking water, as well as giving the geckos added security. You can purchase things like these from the store or make them yourself. There are also several types of natural plants that are safe to keep in your gecko enclosure.
I also like to provide some kind of stick or branch for climbing as well. The safest option is to purchase these at a pet store. If you were to use one from outside there is a risk of bacteria and pests that can make you gecko very sick.
4. A food dish and a water dish at all times. Shallow and wide is good. Again you can purchase these from the pet store, but disposable juice lids or jar lids make great dishes as well.
5. Substrate- For young geckos the best and safest substrate is paper towels or reptile carpet. This is especially important when feeding crickets to prevent the gecko from accidentally ingesting the substrate. This can be fatal to a young gecko. For older geckos a natural substrate free from large pieces of stick or bark is suitable. Eco Earth by Zoo Med id a great option, so it Plantation soil by Exo Terra.
Lighting
Crested geckos are nocturnal and from a forest habitat, so adding lights is not necessary. Despite what some guy in the pet store will tell you, that super expensive UVB light is not necessary. In the wild, crested geckos retreat to a dark hiding place during daylight hours...this is not going to change in your home. Our geckos do great with just the ambient light in the room. If you would like to light your gecko's enclosure, be sure that the light bulb doesn't make the cage temperature too warm.
Diet & Feeding
Crested geckos do great when fed a diet consisting of crickets dusted with a calcium supplement and some sort of gecko diet, such as Repashy Superfoods Gecko Diet MRP (formerly Crested Gecko Diet MRP). The MRP should be the main staple of your gecko's diet. Crickets should only be fed once a week at most. We feed crickets about once a month.
Handling
Crested geckos are one of the easiest geckos, if not the easiest gecko species, to handle. Some can be flighty at first, but generally calm down with brief handling periods. A 'hand to hand' walk is generally recommended. In other words, let the gecko jump or walk from one hand to another when handling, rather than trying to restrain or hold the gecko in your hand. Crested geckos are more likely to leap than run, so exercise caution if you're handling your gecko on a hard floor.
Information for this care sheet was taken from the care sheet on acreptiles.com. This is not the most complete gecko care sheet out there. I highly recommend doing more extensive research to better educate yourself about the care of these little guys. As with any pet, the decision to purchase an animal should not be taken lightly. A pet is a long term commitment.
